The Ukrainian Winery In The Middle Of A War Zone

In 2013, former weightlifter Pavlo Magalias established the Olvio Nuvo vineyard on the slopes of the Southern Buh River in Ukraine. The vineyard owes its name to the ancient Greek city of Olbia, founded in the seventh century, whose ruins are just a few hundred meters away.

Since Russia's invasion of Ukraine on February 24, this out-of-the-way, wind-swept spot has lost its usual tranquility.

"I'm the winegrower closest to the front line," Magalias told AFP as the heavy rumbling of Russian and Ukrainian artillery resonated behind him. What appears to be a casing for banned cluster munitions is embedded among his vines.

Due to their rapid advance into southern Ukraine, Russian forces were able to seize control of the opposite river bank south of the city of Mykolayiv at the outset of the invasion. That's how Olvio Nuvo "found itself by chance at the epicenter of the war," Magalias said.

In the beginning, bombs would explode near the workers as they tended to the grapes. During "these very tough months," Margalias counted no less than 26 craters pockmarking his vineyards. He had to dig up the missile fragments as they continued their work. 

With the influx of powerful weapons donated by Western countries, Ukrainian forces were able to push the Russian forces back. Now, the sounds of powerful explosions barely provoke a raised eyebrow among the workers, who are able to gauge the distance by how long it takes between the smoke rising and the sound of the explosion.

Originally from Moldova, Magalias says he's never thought of leaving. "I put all my savings into this vineyard. Now, I no longer have any money, but I do have all this," he said, gesturing toward his land, which produces 15,000 bottles of red and white wine a year.

"We were not bothering anyone, we were quietly working and the Russians came. Why the hell are they here?" Magalias said forcefully as he talked about the conflict that has killed "many friends." Along with managing the vineyard, Magalias volunteers as a sapper in Ukraine's territorial defense, a skill that he puts to use on his own land. 

In addition to the collection of ancient storage jars unearthed at his vineyard, Magalias now has a pile of casings of banned cluster bombs that fell from the sky.

Russia's seizure of Crimea from Ukraine in 2014 resulted in the loss of about one-third of Ukraine's vineyards, including some of their best and most famous.

Since the Russian invasion, family wineries have been destroyed or occupied, and others, such as Olvio Nuvo, remain at risk from shelling.

In a region that has been economically crippled by war, the winery is a welcome source of income for those who have stayed. Zyneida Bossa, 66, is unfazed when she discovers weapon fragments amongst the vines. "Some people are nervous because of missiles, but I'm OK. What can we do? You have to have something to live on, we need to work," she said.

Margalias remains optimistic about his future and his winery. The worst thing, he says, breaking into a sarcastic smile, is that this year is "exceptional."

"Ones like that, you get once every five years! The grape gives its all and the wine is going to be excellent, maybe just a powdery aftertaste," he jokes.